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#1
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I wasn't sure if anyone had ever posted something like this to help out. I'm an electrical idiot, so I hope this helps others as much as it helped me! Here is a link to help understand how to run wiring safely. It has full diagrams and wire sizes, etc to help out and understand how everything works.
Any tips you guys have out there, please let us know. http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...ry/relays.html
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Philz
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#3
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Quote:
I agree to a point, with low draw aux equipment, like a bro interior led light or something, lol! ![]() It's a safety thing to me, and I agree with the accent SCT saying, "do it right the first time." I am running 3, 12 volt 30 amp switches for my h.i.d. hella's. Is it overkill, yes, but it's safe and I don't have to worry about excessive heat or a possible fire. I don't want to run a large power wire straight from the battery to the switch on my dash, and then back to the light. Even with a fuse in line, that's a lot of hot power. I can run a power wire out of an aux fuse in the power box in the cab to power the switches and run proper gauged wire from the battery to the lights. I just see it as being much safer. Will it take a little more time, yes, but I'm ok with that. My h.i.d. ballasts draw a lot of power when they are switched on. I would rather the power go straight from the battery, through a fuse, to the relay, and on to the lights.
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Philz
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#6
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I broke down and ran a hella wiring kit. It has a fuse, inline relay etc. One thing I don't like is it powers off of the headlight beam power line to power the switch, but I'll run it to a different source when I get a chance. It was easy as can be, took about 30 minutes and only $40. I did blow the 15amp fuse though when I tried to start the truck with the lights on, my dumb ass fault.. I am going to run a separate wiring line on the pencil, and leave the kit on the euro lights. Seems like to much power having all three ran through one relay and switch.
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Philz
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#7
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you need to run a power block like I have and some others have done....
![]() ![]() then you dont have to run it off your headlight power switch
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BCD Perfomance Mark: "whatcha dooooin' Mustard.....?" Andrew: "just peeing on Ian's truck......what's uuuuuuuuuuuuup?!?"
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#8
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Nice! I really do need one. Who makes yours? I saw that Painless Wiring makes one when I picked up the hella kit. I'll have to check around for some pricing.
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Philz
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#9
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I got that one at West Marine...it was around $55 bucks
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BCD Perfomance Mark: "whatcha dooooin' Mustard.....?" Andrew: "just peeing on Ian's truck......what's uuuuuuuuuuuuup?!?"
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#11
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for my offroad lights, i just run an inline 20amp fuse to a relay, and the magnet for the relay is powered off my old fog light wire.
for my fans i run a 40amp relay to a switch. backup lights are going to be similar to my offroad lights, and the amber is just going to be a straight switch to it, no relays... so for some things its ok, just as long as you fuse as close as possible to the battery, i usually over do the wire too, like running a 10amp fuse with wire rated to 15 amps. |
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#12
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im running a 2-speed electric fan w/ no relay, ive had relays go bad on me before and i figured my fan is pretty important i dont want that shit to go out in the middle of nowhere so im running 12ga wire starting w/ inline fuse at the batt. to a switch rated at 60A. i can run it al day and nothing even warms up
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#14
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looks good...I would move that glass fuse holder to fender well....if you see how I wired my stuff, I can easily open the stock fuse block without wire interference
__________________
BCD Perfomance Mark: "whatcha dooooin' Mustard.....?" Andrew: "just peeing on Ian's truck......what's uuuuuuuuuuuuup?!?"
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#15
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I will move the fuse tomorrow. I need to pick up some screws!
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Philz
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